Venice Revisited: A Week of Discovery
Venice can break your heart—or steal it completely. Our first visit in 2016 did a little of both, leaving us knowing we'd barely scratched the surface of this floating city and longing to return. By 2022, we'd learned how to do it right.
Our first visit to Venice in 2016 was a blur of beautiful chaos that I highlight in The Inaugural European Rail Odyssey: Part 2 - Milan to Venice. The city was completely packed—you could hardly move outside the Santa Lucia train station or in front of St. Mark's Basilica. Our frantic first-trip effort to reach our hotel involved declining a €60 water taxi, struggling with luggage over endless bridges, and culminating in a spontaneous ride on a local's boat after we got completely off track.
By the time we returned in June 2022, the world had changed. We had seen the famous videos of fish returning to Venice's canals in nearly crystal-clear water. Due to the travel climate, Venice was noticeably quieter, and the crowds were dramatically different the second time around. We wanted to immerse ourselves in this city, ready to walk the ancient streets of a city founded in the 5th century. This time, we didn't just visit—we lived there for a full week.
The Brescia Bookend
Since we were flying in and out of Milan for our 9-day trip and the apartment rental required a week minimum stay, we bookended our time by staying the first night in Brescia, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the final night back in Milan. After taking the local train from MXP to Milano Centrale, we quickly boarded for a 35-minute train ride to Brescia.
We enjoyed a lovely dinner at the AC Hotel Brescia on Thursday night, but Friday was dedicated to discovery. Fueled by our morning espressos, we set out to see the Roman ruins (the primary draw), visited a monastery, admired the ceiling murals in the beautiful Chiesa di San Cristo, and walked the expansive grounds of the Castello di Brescia. You can read my detailed review of that trip on our original blog ReviewSteak. After a light lunch at Piazza Paolo, we caught our train for the two hour journey to Venice. This time, everything would be different.
Unlocking Local Life
Deciding to return to Venice was no decision at all. We immediately fell in love with the small amount of time we spent there. The thrill of having water as the only mode of transportation, combined with the genuine warmth of the people, ensured we always planned to return. When travel restrictions were finally lifted, it was the first place we wanted to go. The only drawback was cost. While our hotel in 2016 was functional, the room was very small with only a tiny window that opened onto a narrow calle, so there was almost no light from outside. We knew we needed something bigger to stay an entire week, but a hotel meant a lot more cost.
To truly experience the real Venice, we made two critical logistical changes.
1. Renting, Not Booking
First, instead of booking a hotel, we searched Marriott's Homes and Villas site and located a small apartment for about $1000 several months in advance. This was a fantastic price (prices are now averaging at least 1.5 times that). We chose the historic Jewish Quarter (Ghetto Nuovo) of the quieter Cannaregio sestiere. Life felt transformed: we were temporary residents, making espresso in our own kitchen, buying fresh ingredients at local markets, and enjoying the city’s quiet rhythm after the day-trippers had left.
After some frustrating experiences with vacation rental platforms—misleading photos, unresponsive hosts, and surprise fees—we appreciated the accountability that comes with booking through a major hotel chain. Plus, staying through Marriott Homes and Villas meant we earned Bonvoy points just as we would at a traditional hotel, adding real value to an already reasonable rate. We were able to make a deposit of 50%, and pay the balance two weeks prior to check-in. The combination of consumer protection and rewards made this a no-brainer for a week-long stay.
2. Mastering the Vaporetto
Second, we finally mastered the public water bus system. This time I was determined to get to the bottom of how it all worked. As soon as we got off the train, we invested in 7-day Vaporetto passes. The cost of €65 pays for cards to swipe when boarding, well worth the convenience it brings. This single decision changed everything. The unlimited access allowed us to effortlessly hop on at our local S. Marcuola-Casino stop and off at any station, turning the city’s waterways into our private transit network. We could easily explore the distant, unique sestieri and even visit the nearby islands with freedom and ease.
Armed with these two strategies, we were ready to truly live in Venice.
Cannaregio & The Jewish Ghetto
We were so eager to start our week that, while waiting for the keys, we stopped for a quick snack at the nearby Trattoria Da Mimmo. The one-bedroom apartment featured a fully equipped kitchen, a small balcony overlooking Rio Terà San Leonardo, plus large front facing windows, and enough space to truly unpack and settle in. With our luggage stowed, we set out to explore the area. Cannaregio offers a peaceful respite from the constant foot traffic around the Rialto and San Marco. It’s where you find grocery stores, laundromats, and quiet churches—the real Venice. Our area, the historic Jewish Quarter (Ghetto Nuovo), provided a deep sense of history and quietude.
With our apartment situated directly on the main pedestrian artery of the district, we decided to dedicate our first full day to simply getting to know our neighborhood, Cannaregio. This proved to be one of the best decisions of the trip.
Just down the street, we found basic provisions like baguette, cheese, snacks, and water at Despar for about €45 for the week. For fresh fruits and vegetables, we opted to shop in small local markets. Of course, we also had to stock up on gelato! The apartment was equipped with a washer, meaning we were able to do some laundry mid-way through the trip. Dryers are not common in Europe, so we utilized the clothesline between the buildings for drying—a true local experience.
Afternoon at Bacaro Pub da Aldo
Cicchetti on display
Cannaregio is also home to the Fondamenta della Misericordia and the Fondamenta degli Ormesini, two beautiful canalside walkways famous for their concentration of authentic bacari (traditional Venetian bars serving small snacks called cicchetti). Exploring these streets and canals was a reminder that you don't have to venture far from home to find the city's unique charm.
We spent hours walking the narrow calli, appreciating the tall apartment buildings and historic synagogues, and noticing the subtle absence of tourist crowds. Eventually, we discovered Bacaro Pub da Aldo (named for its charismatic owner), a place on Fondamenta degli Ormesini we would spend most evenings. We met many wonderful people there while sipping beers and watching the locals steer their boats out of the canal to watch the sunset. Tables line the canal, but people are always jockeying for seats, so we would inevitably wind up with one or two strangers sitting down with us, and leaving as friends.
San Marco: The Imperial Center
Despite having a 7-day Vaporetto pass in hand, for our first full day of exploration, we decided to head out on foot. This long walk took us right into the inescapable historical and cultural heart of the city: San Marco. This district is home to the most famous landmarks in Venice—St. Mark's Basilica, the Doge's Palace, and the iconic Campanile—and it still demands attention, no matter how quiet the city is.
Even in 2022, San Marco was the most crowded area we encountered, but the difference from our 2016 trip was stark. We weren't fighting crowds just to walk, which allowed us to actually appreciate the vast scale of St. Mark’s Square and the sheer Gothic power of the Doge's Palace.
St. Mark's Square: Drag the slider to compare 2016 (packed) vs. 2022 (breathable)
It is easy to spend the day there, just exploring the narrow streets and broad piazzas. Gone too was the feeling we had to pack in as much as possible in a single day. We spent time admiring the architecture of places like Chiesa di Santa Maria del Giglio and exploring local shops. We took advantage of the thin crowds, and would stop for a cicchetti and a drink, ordering from the counter and using the window ledge as a bar—something we never would have been able to do in 2016 with the crushing crowds. We spent most of the day immersed in this imperial center before our tired legs finally convinced us to head back across the Rialto and into the quiet comfort of our home neighborhood.
Like Spain, we discovered many places in Italy closed between lunch and dinner, but we were relieved to find Osteria Ai 40 Ladroni (Tavern of the 40 Thieves) on the quiet Fondamenta de la Sensa open and spent the early evening there talking with the men working the bar. Later, we returned to Fondamenta degli Ormesini and found it packed on a Saturday night. The area surrounding our usual spot, Bacaro Pub da Aldo, was overflowing! We opted for take-out pizza from Pizzeria Da Zorma, and honestly, it was some of the best pizza we have ever had.
This night was when I took full note of the crowd contrast: the vast majority of the people we met were Italians—either locals or on holiday. It was a beautiful experience. That night, we found ourselves spending hours talking and laughing with a lively group of young Italian men out for a stag party, only to be joined by their hen party later on! It turned out the engaged couple were planning a road trip in the US as a delayed honeymoon. We shared with them our favorite places in Colorado, where we were living, as well as some not to be missed locations in the Pacific Northwest. They promised to give us a call if they were driving through our area. It was a memorable evening of merriment and camaraderie, and one of the true highlights of the trip.
The Vaporetto Strategy
Despite walking San Marco, we found ourselves experiencing that common Venetian sensation: the "can't see the forest for the trees" confusion. The city's geography can be baffling, with bridges, calli, and canals constantly obscuring your path. Due to the unique architecture of Venice (narrow streets and high buildings), GPS is unreliable. We would take a path we swore we knew from hours before, only to find ourselves at a dead-end. To conquer this, we dedicated our next morning to simply riding the Vaporetto.
The Vaporetto is Venice's public transit system—essentially the city bus. So while some stops, like ours, were relatively empty, others were crowded with daily commuters and children headed to school. This strategic approach of moving around the perimeter and along the Grand Canal over the first few hours allowed us to finally get a feel for where the six sestieri were in relation to one another (and rest our feet). The pass truly paid off here, turning sightseeing into a necessary part of our orientation. We took note of stops that looked interesting to return to later.
By early afternoon, we were moving quickly between neighborhoods, and making strategic stops for cicchetti, as we started to piece together the layout of the city. Cicchetti are a great option to stay on the move but not stay hungry. They are typically €1 each, or €5 for 6. By the end of the day, we would find we had only spent €10–€12, plus drinks, on snacks.
Later that day, after taking the Vaporetto back to the Guglie stop in Cannaregio, we once again ended up at 40 Ladroni. It was here, in the sweltering late-June heat, that we started a new trend: ordering a large beer served with a champagne bucket and two small glasses—the way they serve chopp in Rio! This simple hack ensured our beers stayed cool, allowing us to fully relax and enjoy the evening atmosphere. At that time of day, around 5 pm, the last of the tourists are heading out of the lagoon and families are starting to emerge for their evening strolls. It is easy to forget you are in one of the most over-visited cities in the world, and feel the coziness of a neighborhood going about their daily lives.
That night, after living off mostly cicchetti for three days, we decided we needed a proper meal. We explored our options and for dinner chose Ristorante Due Fratelli. They have glowing reviews for their pizza, but we opted for steak. They had two special meals that night: I had beef medallions with mushroom sauce and a glass of house wine, while Mauricio had the filet with cheese sauce, and we shared a side of potatoes. Both meals were absolutely perfect; the filet was so tender it didn't even require a knife. It was an incredibly rewarding end to a strategic day of travel.
Cruising the Grand Canal on the Vaporetto - our €65 pass turned sightseeing into our daily commute
Castello: The Quiet East
The day after our rewarding steak dinner, we took the Vaporetto to the S. Pietro di Castello stop, venturing deep into the eastern district. This area of Castello offered a stunning contrast to the crowds of San Marco, as there were very few people there that day, allowing us to fully appreciate the quiet, local pace of life.
Lorenzo Quinn's "Building Bridges" at Venice Arsenale
Stepping off the boat, we found ourselves in a Venice few tourists see - a quiet residential neighborhood. We walked for about half an hour, only seeing two other people, crossing over the Calle de Quintavale bridge and continuing our exploration. The neighborhood is notably different from the other parts of Venice we had seen. Many of the buildings are low (1–2 stories) and are red brick, contrasting with the tall, highly colorful residences seen along the Grand Canal. There is also a good amount of green space, something hard to find in this city on water.
Our time was centered around the historic Campo San Piero de Casteo. This campo is home to the Basilica di San Pietro di Castello, which served as the seat of the Patriarch of Venice for centuries. We were lucky enough to find a temporary art exhibition with installations from several artists right in the park. It was a pleasant experience to wander through the exhibits and enjoy walking around the shaded park, soaking up the quiet atmosphere of the far eastern end of Venice. This area, with the nearby Arsenale (home to the historic Gaggiandre shipyards), serves as a perfect escape from the typical tourist trails and is a must-see for a slower, reflective day. *(Note: The Arsenale is primarily a closed military zone and only fully accessible during major events like the Biennale.)*
Dorsoduro & San Polo
Our next day we had planned to take a Vaporetto to Lido and enjoy the beach there, as we had been invited by a young man who worked at a beach club. Lido is an island on the Adriatic Sea where you will find wide sandy beaches and a slower pace. However, when the forecast called for thunderstorms, we pivoted to exploring two key central districts instead. We started in Dorsoduro, the cultural and student heart of Venice. This area offers a relaxed, bohemian atmosphere, home to major art institutions like the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, and the lengthy Fondamenta delle Zattere—a beautiful sun-drenched promenade that offers spectacular views across the Giudecca Canal.
The famous Rialto Bridge
From there, we crossed the Grand Canal on foot and moved into San Polo. This is the smallest of the six sestieri and one of the most authentically Venetian. It's home to the famous Rialto Market, where vendors have sold produce and fresh seafood for centuries. Wandering the quiet residential calli of San Polo, away from the Rialto Bridge crowds, you get a sense of the intimate, day-to-day life that powers the city. Observing the locals, we made a crucial discovery: to avoid the summer heat, they stick to only the shadows cast by the tall buildings when walking. At high noon, you are likely to find the streets less crowded and the shade of the cafes more crowded.
We explored until the skies turned dark, but the weather caught up with us quickly. We managed to make it back to Cannaregio and ducked into 40 Ladroni just in time to hunker down from a sharp summer rainstorm.
We felt like true insiders when we observed four tourists clamor in to escape the rain, only to be told they must order to occupy a table. This is common practice in Venice and other major tourist cities in Italy. Audaciously, they ordered one orange soda for four people. When the rain started to let up and they asked for the bill, they were outraged to be charged €5 for one soda. They left flustered, and we had a big laugh with our new pals working in the bar. It was the perfect ending: watching the narrow street outside turn into a river from the shelter of our favorite local bar and sharing an inside joke with true Venetians.
Murano: The Capital of Glass
Having mastered the Vaporetto pass, our next day was reserved for a classic Venetian excursion: an island trip across the lagoon to Murano, the historic heart of the world's finest glassmaking. This trip alone would have cost at least €20. We caught the boat at S. Alvise, a ten-minute walk away on the outer edge of the island. After about half an hour, a ride that takes you beside the island of San Michele, where the primary cemetery for Venice is located, we stepped out in Murano.
Historic Glass Furnace and Showroom
I was surprised by how truly tiny Murano is—a compact cluster of islands separated by a wide canal. We spent a few hours exploring the various glass-blowing factories. Watching the master artisans shape molten glass into delicate, complex pieces is a mesmerizing experience that offers a deep respect for the craft. From the windows of the many stores, you can see the pieces, from the tiny horses rearing up on delicate back legs, to the iconic chandeliers.
A Murano chandelier is far more than a simple light fixture; it is a sprawling, intricate sculpture of refracted light and color. They often command attention with dozens of delicate, curving arms adorned with hand-sculpted ornamental details—such as delicate leaves (known as foglie) and realistic blossoms (fiori). These pieces stand as the ultimate testament to Murano's unmatched mastery of the furnace.
Since Murano was the only island we had time for on this trip, we maximized the return journey. When exiting, we opted for the longer route. We took the Linea 7 vessel that makes a big circle from San Marco and back, stopping on Murano. The boat was not crowded, so we were able to sit back, relax, and take in the scenery. We stayed on the Vaporetto all the way to the San Marco stop, a trip just under an hour. Cruising along the Grand Canal from this vantage point, we saw yet more places we wanted to explore like the Giardini della Biennale, another large park in the Castello district. We had the eye-opening experience of realizing all travel is truly by boat when we saw a water ambulance and a fire brigade boat making their way swiftly through the Lido Inlet. By the time we exited, we felt like we had been treated to a private boat tour.
Departure & Final Thoughts
After almost a week in Venice, we felt we had peeled away the layers that only tourists see, and found the city's beating heart. Our week-long strategy—renting the apartment in the Jewish Quarter, buying the Vaporetto pass, and traveling when world-wide tourism was low—completely transformed our experience. Venice, once a place of chaos and confusion, became a place of profound relaxation and unique connection.
For our final day, we took the opportunity to revisit some of the favorite places and bacari we had found throughout the week. We savored those last bites, not knowing when we would have the chance to enjoy this uniquely Venetian snack. Of course, our late afternoon was spent bantering with the guys at 40 Ladroni. When we appeared, we were greeted like old friends, and without asking, they presented us with our Moretti in a bucket and two glasses. We were amused to see two other tables already had the same set up! That was followed by drinking our last pour from Aldo, who we had learned is a neighborhood fixture. It was a relaxed, reflective end to our time, spent laughing and looking back on our time in this magical city. As we watched our last sunset, we spent our final hours with the people we had met and enjoyed the quiet comfort of our neighborhood one last time.
Sunset on Fondamenta degli Ormesini
Our week-long trip, built around living like a local, had drawn to a close. The following morning, after a final quiet meal in our apartment and a last walk to catch the Vaporetto, we swiped our cards one last time to take the train to Milan for our final bookend night before flying out, concluding a successful nine-day trip that truly went beneath the surface.
Planning Your Own Week in Venice: Essential Tips
Ready to trade the tourist crush for quiet canals? Here are the key takeaways from our trip:
- Go Beyond San Marco: Prioritize districts like Cannaregio and Castello for a true sense of local life.
- Rent, Don't Hotel: For stays longer than three nights, an apartment rental (especially via sites like Marriott Homes and Villas) can save money and provide a better lifestyle experience.
- Master the Vaporetto: The 7-day pass (€65) is worth every cent for both sightseeing and orientation.
Do you want to see our favorite dining and bacari spots? Look for our dedicated guide coming soon!
Thanks for stopping by and sharing!