In our narrative post, Venice Done Right: Living Like a Local & Finding Silence in the Floating City, I detailed how we fell in love with the quiet rhythms of the Cannaregio district. But let's get down to the most important part: the food and drink.
We spent a week living like locals, which meant avoiding the tourist traps of San Marco and sticking to the authentic spots along the canals of the Jewish Ghetto and beyond. Here is the short-list of the places we returned to again and again.
1. The Evening Ritual: Bacaro Pub da Aldo
This became our living room. Located on the bustling Fondamenta degli Ormesini, this is the quintessential Venetian experience. It isn't about sitting at a table with a white tablecloth; it's about grabbing a spot on the canal wall, watching the sunset, and talking to strangers.
The Vibe: Lively, standing-room social, local hangout.
Order This: A beer or spritz.
Location: Cannaregio (Fondamenta degli Ormesini)
2. The Rainy Refuge: Osteria Ai 40 Ladroni
One canal over from Aldo's is this warm, inviting tavern (Tavern of the 40 Thieves). We ducked in here to escape a massive summer rainstorm and ended up having one of our favorite afternoons sharing laughs with the staff. It feels deeply authentic and welcoming.
The Vibe: Rustic, friendly, and cozy. A perfect shelter from the weather or the crowds.
Order This: Fresh seafood pasta and a liter of house wine if hungry. If stopping in for a cold drink, ask for a large beer with an ice bucket and small glasses to keep it cold.
Location: Cannaregio (Fondamenta de la Sensa)
3. The Proper Dinner: Ristorante Due Fratelli
Full review on ReviewSteak.com
After days of surviving on cicchetti (small snacks), we eventually craved a "proper" sit-down meal. We chose Due Fratelli in the heart of Cannaregio based on reviews for their pizza, but were pleasantly surprised by everything else.
The Vibe: Classic Italian sit-down dinner. White tablecloths but relaxed service.
Order This: They are famous for pizza, but the Filet with Cheese Sauce was so tender we didn't even need a knife. Pair either with a house wine.
Location: Cannaregio
4. The Life Saver: Pizzeria Da Zorma
On Saturday nights, the canal-side bars in Cannaregio can get overflowing with people. When we finally grabbed a seat outside Aldo's, we opted for takeaway from Zorma just two doors down. It was fast, incredibly fresh, and saved the night.
The Vibe: Grab-and-go.
Order This: Any pizza to go. Take it back to your apartment or stay at the canal and share with new friends.
Location: Cannaregio
5. The "Lost & Found": La Bottiglia
During our first trip in 2016, we got hopelessly lost trying to find our hotel in San Polo. We stumbled upon this tiny spot, threw down our luggage, and had a life-affirming break. It remains a favorite memory.
The Vibe: Street-side people watching.
Order This: A cured meat and cheese board with a cold beer. Perfect for a midday recharge.
Location: San Polo
6. The Social Spark: Osteria Al Portego
This spot holds a special place in our history. On our very first night in 2016, we stumbled in here and were struck by the lively atmosphere—young people talking, not looking at phones. It was here we met the group of locals who adopted us for the night and took us on a tour of the city. It is often crowded, loud, and incredibly fun.
The Vibe: Bustling, authentic bacaro. Expect to stand and rub elbows with students and locals.
Order This: Their cicchetti counter is legendary, especially the seafood options. Pair it with a house wine (ombra).
Location: Castello (Calle de la Malvasia)
7. The Window Ledge: Bar Redentore
During our long walk through San Marco, we stopped here to experience the true Venetian way of drinking: ordering at the counter and taking our drinks outside to lean against the window ledge. Located on the beautiful Campo San Stefano, it’s prime real estate for people watching.
The Vibe: Relaxed elegance on a busy square.
Order This: An Aperol Spritz and a quick snack to enjoy while standing outside or, if you are lucky, grab a table canal side for a needed break.
Location: San Marco (Campo San Stefano)
8. The San Marco Refuge: Bar Ducale
Finding a reasonably priced, authentic bite near St. Mark’s Square is famously difficult, but Bar Ducale is the exception. It is a tiny, fast-paced institution where locals stop for a quick bite, ignoring the overpriced tourist traps just around the corner.
The Vibe: Old-school, fast, and professional.
Order This: They are famous for their tramezzini (soft, crustless triangular sandwiches) and excellent coffee. Expect to stand or take it to go.
Location: San Marco (Calle delle Ostreghe)
Want the full story? Read about how we found these places in our detailed travelogue: Venice Revisited: A Week of Discovery.
Thanks for stopping by and sharing!