Our arrival in Vienna, following the long haul from Venice on the Eurocity 30, wasn't just a change of location—it was a shift in era. Celebrating our first anniversary and my birthday, we stepped out of the damp night and into the Hotel Bristol, where the fatigue of an eight-hour journey vanished. We were ushered into a wood-paneled lounge, handed glasses of champagne, and seated beside a crackling fire while jazz played softly overhead. It was the perfect, immediate immersion into the City of Music.
📍 Part of Our European Rail Odyssey
This post is a deep dive into our time in Vienna during our European Rail Odyssey series. Read about our train journey from Venice to Vienna, or continue next week with our Vienna to Cologne leg.
Setting the Stage: Elegance and Transit
Vienna is a city of stunning architectural history, but we immediately noticed the warmth of the people. Having traveled extensively without knowing the local language, we found that people here were friendly and eager to communicate, always finding a way to convey what it is they wanted to say.
Logistically, Vienna is built for ease of exploration. The Straßenbahn (tram) runs in both an inner and outer ring in the city, making it an easy and affordable way to get just about anywhere. We were lucky to spend our first two nights right across the street from the world-famous Vienna State Opera House at the beautiful Hotel Bristol, with a tram stop right outside the front door. Our final night was spent at the Courtyard by Marriott Prater/Messe, a modern area of the city near Park Prater, requiring a bit more walking to reach the main sites.
The Bristol suite itself was a capsule of 19th-century grandeur. We walked down a long hallway past a marble-clad bath with a separate WC to find a room dressed in rich ruby and light green striped wallpaper and diamond-patterned carpet. A luxurious queen bed with a stately wooden headboard anchored the sleeping area, but we spent most of our time in the separate sitting room. There, settled in leather wingback chairs near a vintage record player stocked with classical albums, we found the perfect spot to brew our morning coffee. Best of all, French doors opened directly onto a view of the Opera House across the street.
Day 1: Imperial Architecture and the Tafelspitz Test
That morning, when we threw open the French doors of our top-floor suite, we were greeted by the sound of a soaring aria. We looked out to see opera singers rehearsing in the opera house across Kärntner Straße. It was a truly magical welcome—a private concert just for us, enjoyed over morning coffee.
When we decided to venture out, the concierge purchased 24-hour tickets for us to use public transport (tickets can be purchased online, at underground stations, tobacconists, or on board the tram for an increased rate). We braved the rain and boarded the tram just outside the hotel. Taking the tram was a great way to tour the city while staying dry. That was our first street-level glance at the famous Vienna State Opera House, and it conveys the importance of music in the culture. Opened in 1869 with Mozart's Don Giovanni, the massive stone building harkens back to the architecture of the Austro-Hungarian empire; a time before the world wars.
Because we could get on and off as much as we wanted, we got off after we passed by the stately parliament building and went into Vienna's "most elegant cafe," Café Landtmann, for our first Austrian cafe coffee experience. We had a light breakfast of classic Viennese shortbread, breakfast croissants, and "Melanges"—a long espresso shot with foamed milk—while we waited for the rain to let up.
Then we set out, starting at the Hofburg Palace complex, diving into the grandeur of the former winter residence of the Habsburg emperors and exploring the surrounding Ringstraße. Soon after, the rain drove us back to the safety of the Straßenbahn, where we completed our tour of the inner Ringstraße.
The Plachutta Experience (Lunch)
For lunch, I was determined to try one of the most famous and historic dishes in Austria: Tafelspitz (boiled beef). I had read that reservations are essential and had booked a table at Plachutta Hietzing. On the tram, we decided to skip the Hietzing reservation and look for a place closer to our current location. Once again we deboarded, this time into the rain at Julius Raab Platz, and darted from doorway to doorway to avoid getting thoroughly soaked. By sheer chance, we turned the corner to find Plachutta (but at the wrong location, Wollzeile, as it turned out!). The hostess happily seated us in their covered, but heated, outdoor area.
The Tafelspitz dish is a traditional delicacy, beloved by Emperor Franz Joseph (who ruled from 1848–1916). After receiving our beverages, the familiar Ottakringer Helles we enjoyed on the journey from Venice, we placed our meal order with the server. The meal arrived in a gigantic setup: a burner with pots of vegetables boiled with the meat, and plates loaded with sides like fried potato rösti and pureed spinach.
The display was impressive. However, at the risk of committing culinary heresy, the Tafelspitz was one of the least enjoyable meals we had on that trip. I appreciate the history and story behind it, but the flavors were surprisingly subtle for such an elaborate presentation. It's unfortunate to report this, because the portions were enormous, the service was top-notch, and they were so accommodating. While I don't regret experiencing this national staple, my recommendation is: try this if you are curious, enjoy the atmosphere and the service, but if you want amazing flavor, look elsewhere.
(For the full, detailed review and more photos of this massive meal, click here: Plachutta Review on ReviewSteak)
A Night of Revelry and Gothic Grandeur
After the disappointing meal at Plachutta, we decided to explore more of the city and do some shopping. We started out at St. Stephen's Cathedral, a massive Gothic Roman Catholic cathedral dating back to the 12th century.
It is an impressive structure whose original building plan has yet to be finished, which has resulted in other architectural style elements being found as well. When it was partially destroyed by fire at the end of World War II, the wooden roof was replaced by one of light steel and covered with over 230,000 glazed tiles. On the outer walls are "ells" that were used as the standard of measurement for linen, drapery, and loaves of bread. Also on the walls there is an inscription of the numbers "05," a symbol of Austrian resistance to Nazi rule that can be found on other buildings in Vienna as well.
Though we couldn't go inside this visit, the cathedral is known for its magnificent blend of Gothic architecture and Baroque ornamentation. It houses over eighteen altars and six chapels, including the Baroque high altar (built in the 1640s) which features a depiction of the stoning of the church's patron, St. Stephen. Other notable features include the Maria Pötsch Icon, a Byzantine-style icon of St. Mary with the child Jesus, and various Early Gothic stone figures like the Angel of the Annunciation. Inside the cathedral is the final resting place of Emperor Frederick III in an elaborately carved red marble tomb. Beneath, it also houses the remains of Habsburgs and Viennese citizens in the catacombs. We tend to avoid catacombs in general, so we moved on to the "Golden U."
Luxury and Schlumberger
Stepping out of the cathedral's shadow, you are immediately thrust into the heart of Vienna's most exclusive district. The "Golden U" is where the streets Kärntner Straße, Graben, and the upscale Kohlmarkt intersect. We strolled down Kärntner Straße (Carinthian Street) and did some window shopping. We also browsed inside Steffl Kaufhaus (Steffl Department Store), a large upscale department store. At the time we were not aware of the rooftop area, but if we have a chance to return to Vienna, we will definitely go there for lunch and take in the panoramic views of the city.
After a day of sightseeing and shopping, the only thing left to do was find a nice place for a drink. Close to the hotel we discovered Gerstner K. u. K. Hofzuckerbäcker at the Palais Todesco. It is not apparent from the outside, because you can only see dessert counters, but on the second floor is a bar featuring many varieties of Schlumberger sparkling wines.
When we entered, a hostess informed us the bar was fully booked for the evening. Mauricio, however, wasn't about to let our anniversary evening end that way. He explained to the hostess that we were in Vienna for the first time—celebrating our first anniversary and just two days total. He charmingly proposed a compromise: could we sit for just one glass, promising to leave immediately if the reservation holders arrived? She agreed and seated us in a booth with a direct view of the Opera House. As luck would have it, the other patrons never showed up, allowing us to turn "one glass" into a relaxed evening of people-watching and sparkling wine. In fact, we loved it so much that years later—after revisiting Austria on our 2019 trip—I hunted down a supplier to ship several bottles to us in the US since it’s nearly impossible to find stateside.
Our 'one glass' turned into an unforgettable anniversary evening
Day 2: Schönbrunn and Culinary Excellence
Day two was our dedicated culture day, moving from Baroque palaces to contemporary flavor. The morning was overcast, but thankfully drier.
Image by manekj from Pixabay |
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Unfortunately, we were a few weeks too early to visit the famous annual Christmas Market hosted on the palace grounds. It’s a great reason to return during the holiday season!
Checking in to Modern Vienna
The rain came back, and we returned to the city center in the early afternoon. We decided to trade the old-world center for a look at the city's future (aided by a free night's stay we needed to redeem). We checked out of the Bristol and moved to the Courtyard by Marriott Prater/Messe.
Leaving the old-world elegance behind, we stepped through the sliding glass doors into a spacious and well-lit lobby with modern light fixtures and furnishings. We dropped our bags in the room, which was standard sized and functional, and immediately headed back downstairs to the bar. There we enjoyed draft Heineken and a light lunch of sausages and fries.
Many of the buildings in the area were still under construction. Once the rain had moved on, we walked along the Danube River. We spotted Danube Island, a sprawling recreation area built in the middle of the river, but chose not to venture over. We then circled back, passed the modern Vienna University (of Economics and Business) grounds, and headed into Park Prater.
We enjoyed the brisk fall air as we admired the changing leaves on the trees lining the paths. There are several dining establishments inside the park, but we had something specific in mind.
The Wild Discovery (Dinner)
We were in search of the highly-rated Jolly Ox restaurant, but after getting lost and walking nearly an hour, found it closed. By then, we were chilled to the bone and weary from the hour-long walk, ready to settle for the first open door we found. Our detour led to a stroke of luck when we stumbled upon Gasthaus Wild, a restaurant with over 100 years in business that serves local, in-season fare.
The menu was set daily, and we were immediately captivated by the staff's passion. We started with one of the best carpaccio dishes we've ever eaten, made of wild boar. It was succulent and melt-in-your-mouth thin, served with arugula and shaved parmesan.
The staff highly recommended the filet, and we could not say no. If you ever have the opportunity, try an ostrich filet! There is nothing resembling fowl in the flavor of this meat; it is lean and rich. The chef seared it just a tad below medium-rare and served it with roasted vegetables and a wild berry compote which added a perfect tangy sweetness. This was one of those dishes you just never want to end. The flavor and quality of that unique meal made it exciting to try something new.
(For the full, mouth-watering review of this unforgettable meal, check out the original post here: Wild Restaurant Review on ReviewSteak)
Fully satisfied with our meal, and our short time in Vienna, we made our way back to the hotel - in a taxi!
Final Takeaway
We loved Vienna so much that we hoped to return during our 2019 trip to Italy and Switzerland. However, the distance was too great, so we visited Salzburg instead. That later trip highlighted a key difference: unlike the compact, pedestrian-only old town of Salzburg, Vienna is vast. The Straßenbahn network is essential for efficiently covering the distance between the palaces and the center.
The stark contrast between the traditional Tafelspitz and the exciting Wild ostrich filet perfectly summarizes Vienna: it offers both strict, deep tradition and exciting, world-class modern refinement. We would definitely travel back and stay longer.
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